Simple Measure

When your person works at a grocery store, there are certain advantages. Free food, mainly.

In my co-op days in Vermont, I was the one stuffing the ol’ messenger bag with day-old bread, salvaged produce and (just barely!) out-dated dairy products. (It’s really just a guideline, not a hard rule, right?)

In one of life’s funny little role reversals, Jared’s doing the grocery thing since we landed in Chicago. A combined 6 years of samples, discontinued merch and the occasional past sell-by gourmet score isn’t bad, huh?

A few weeks ago he showed up with a sack full of seitan that was past it’s sell-by date. Quick— load it into freezer and now we’ve got a perfectly good supply to last us the next couple months.

Yesterday we thawed a box to try an adaptation of this main dish salad recipe from my standby cookbook, Moosewood Restaurant Daily Special. It calls for cold seitan, but I cooked it crispy instead because it felt right for dinnertime.

Crispy Seitan Salad with Avocado
Adapted from Moosewood Restaurant Daily Special

Seitan is wheat gluten— or what I call “the veggie version of beef.” It marinates well, and I use it in stews, chilis, stirfry and anything that could use a little protein. Find it in the freezer or refrigerated cooler in natural food stores and sections.

1 serrano chile, seeded and chopped

3 Tbs fresh lime juice (you’ll need about 1 and a half limes)

2 Tbs fresh cilantro, chopped

1 8oz package seitan, sliced thin

½ tsp salt

½ cup vegetable oil

2 avocados (grab Hass if you can find them)

2 medium cucumbers, peeled, seeded and cut into crescents

1 small red onion, thinly sliced

3 cloves garlic, crushed

2 Tbs butter

1 cup grape tomatoes, halved

6 cups mesclun or mixed salad greens (about ¼ pound)

2 tsp liquid aminos or vegetarian Worcestershire sauce

Pepper Jack cheese, cubed (optional)

Freshly ground black pepper

1. Heat butter over medium in a large skillet until melted, add garlic and sauté, stirring frequently, for about 3 minutes or until it turns blond and fragrant. Add seitan, liquid aminos (or Worcestershire), black pepper and sauté, stirring occasionally, until crispy. Takes about 15 minutes or so, but keep your eye on the pan so things don’t go from crispy to burned.

2. While the seitan is cooking, combine the chile, lime juice, cilantro, salt and oil in a food processor or blender and pureé until smooth and creamy. Set aside.

3. Rinse the mesclun well, and dry in a salad spinner. Put in a serving bowl.

4. Halve the avocados, twist in half and remove the pits. Score the flesh with a butter knife and scoop the chunks out into a separate bowl. Add the cukes, red onions, tomatoes and crispy seitan. Pour the dressing over everything and stir until well coated.

5. Plate the salad and top with a healthy scoop of the seitan mixture. Add cubed Pepper Jack and serve.

Serves 4

I don’t have anything against winter, really. But on this gray, mopey Monday I found myself thinking (this is right around when my feet got soaked in ice slush for the THIRD time): February, why you gotta be so rough?

I decided to interpret it as a sign. That tonight was the night to pull out this one recipe – one that always brings back the spring and sunshine. (Well, for about a 30-minute window. But I’ll take it!)

So what makes pea soup such a perfect fix for February?*

It’s warm. And it’s sure cold enough outside.

It’s easy. You didn’t really feel like making a whole production out of dinner tonight, did you? Me neither.

It’s super healthy. Extra vitamins can’t hurt after catching the packed, sniffly train home, right?

It’s pretty. Ahh, that bright, beautiful greenness is better than any full spectrum light bulb!

*This claim has not been approved by a) weather men b) weather-predicting rodents or c) seasonal disorder therapists. Unless Jared counts as that last one…

Fresh Pea Soup
Adapted from Vegetarian

When you give this one a try, make sure you use fresh or frozen peas to get the freshest taste.

2 Tbs butter

2 cups vegetable stock

2 shallots, finely chopped

3 cups fresh or frozen peas

4 Tbs milk or soymilk (you can use heavy whipping cream too, if that’s more your dairy scene.)

Salt and fresh ground pepper to taste

1. Melt the butter in a deep sauce pan over medium heat and sauté the shallots until they soften, about 3 minutes.

2. Add the veggie stock and peas and stir in a dash of salt and pepper.

3. Simmer for about 12 minutes if you’re using frozen or young fresh peas. Add an extra 5 minutes for large or older peas.

4. Taste a pea to make sure it’s tender. Ladle the peas into a food processor with just enough of the cooking liquid to get a silky but still thick consistency.

5. Return the soup back to the sauce pan and stir in the milk. Gently heat it back up without boiling. Add more salt and pepper to taste

That’s it! Serve with a crusty baguette.

Serves 2

You want simple? I mean, really braindead cooking? OK. Because I have the perfect thing for that. For when you’re too tired/sickly/busy/uninspired to do much more than “heat.”

It’s where I was at yesterday. Feeling a little sickish, ready to go eat and curl up under a blanket and pass out. Pretty exciting Friday night material, huh?

So here it goes: Couscous. Peas. A little warmed tofu, spiced up with cinnamon and chile garlic paste. I’ll show you:

Brrrriiiiipppp. (That’s you, ripping open the couscous packet.)

Scrnnchscrnchhscrnnch. (Now you’re opening a can – that’s right, a can – of peas. Pretty sweet!)

Fssspphhhtttttt. (Look at that tofu heat up. So easy!)

OK. 15 minutes later, and you’re done. Go eat, and then find your favorite curling-up-and-vegging-out blanket. (You totally have one.)

Couscous with Peas and Tofu
I must tip my hat to Jared for originally laying down this dish. Good job, Metzner.

1 block firm tofu, pressed and drained, then cubed

1 package instant couscous (Can’t really go wrong with Near East Roasted Garlic & Olive Oil.)

1 15 oz. can sweet peas (think Le Seur, or Westbrae Naturals.)

1 Tbs. tamari or liquid aminos (you might want less or more, depending on how flavored you prefer your tofu to be.)

1 tsp. chile garlic paste (Huy Fong Foods makes a great version.)

1/8 tsp. cinnamon

Splash of vegetable oil

Freshly ground pepper

1. Take your pressed and cubed tofu and coat it with the tamari, chile garlic paste and cinnamon. Doesn’t hurt to let it sit and marinate for a few minutes, but if you’re in a hurry, you can move directly to the heat n’ serve stage.

2. Follow package instructions and cook the couscous. Usually they call for added oil and butter to the water, but I leave that part out. It’s just as tasty, without the extra fat added. This takes about 10 minutes, start to finish.

3. In the meantime, heat up just enough vegetable oil to keep your tofu from sticking to the pan. Sauté the tofu over medium high heat, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes. Add the peas and continue to heat for another 5 minutes or so, or until everything is hot enough for your liking.

4. Serve the tofu mixture over couscous, and a little black pepper.

Serves 3

It was nice, waking up this Thursday. The first snow was just starting to come down— and possibly more exciting, there was a keg of Anchor Steam chilling on the back porch.

Thanksgiving— this year dubbed “Kegsgiving” in honor of the aforementioned keg— was a fun, filling success. How could it not be, with such great people?

For the last few years we’ve been trying our own clumsy hand at tradition-making. While everyone around us darts across the country in a car or plane, we band together with the friends sticking it out in town for a real family-style dinner. With beer. Lots more beer.

My favorite part is always when the last minute chopping, re-heating and general craziness is done. We’re all crowded around the table in our mis-matched chairs, digging in and quiet for a moment.

Looking around, you really appreciate all the little somethings everyone added to the day— whether it’s a dish, some inappropriate jokes or just sharing the afternoon with us. (Yes, I am sentimental like this. Just be quiet, and enjoy the food.)

Thanks to everybody who came, ate, and pitched in!

Simon for handling the turkey and all the corresponding “ickies,” plus the fabulous green bean casserole and green salad.

Ari and Derek for the tollhouse pie and special presents.

Paul and K for the fantastic stuffed mushrooms, sweet potatoes, veggie gravy (yes!) and maple walnut pies.

Meg for her always fabulous rolls, and the pumpkin pie with sugared pepitas.

Jereme for cranberry sauce, two ways (sweet and con jalepeño).

Corey for the spicy plantains (really, they had just the perfect amount of heat).

Brock for the awesome cookies with the mindboggling number of ingredients (exactly what kind of cereal was in there?).

Addison for whipping up some seriously delicious mashed potatoes.

And Jared for so, so much, including the safe arrival of the keg (and for drawing us a map for tapping it while you were at work. That was really helpful.)

And because it wouldn’t be a post without a recipe, here’s how you can make the spiced greens and rice dish I rocked out the night before. In fact, if you can, it’s really best to make this ahead of time so it can chill in the fridge for a good 12 hours or more. (Just pop it in the oven at 375 for about 30 minutes to heat it back up.)

The cinnamon and nutmeg make this (really) simple recipe a festive fit for the table this time of year.

Spiced Greens with Rice
Got this recipe from the farm, by way of Mollie Katzen’s Vegetable Heaven.

2 Tbs. extra virgin olive oil

4 cups minced onions

1/2 tsp. salt

3 cloves garlic, minced

2 tsp. ground cumin

1/2 tsp. ground coriander

1/2 tsp. cinnamon

1/4 tsp. nutmeg

1 pound greens, cleaned, stemmed minced (I used kale, which has a chewier texture, but chard and spinach work really well, too.)

Another 1/2 tsp. salt

1 cup long grain brown rice, uncooked

2 ¼ cups water

1. Add the brown rice and water to a small pot with a tight fitting lid (double check the package or instructions of your rice if you’re not using long grain brown). Bring it to a boil and give it just one stir before putting on the lid and reducing the heat so it’s just simmering. Simmer for 45 minutes then remove from heat and let it sit (still covered) for about another 10 minutes. Resist the urge to check on the rice during this process, or stirring it (Well, unless you like really mushy rice). Set aside.

2. Once the rice is simmering, heat the olive oil in a large, heavy skillet. When it’s very hot, (but not smoking) add the onion and 1/2 teaspoon salt and turn the heat to medium low.

3. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring frequently, then cover and let the onion cook for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, stir in the garlic and spices, and cook for about another 5 minutes.

4. Turn the heat way up and add the greens and another 1/2 teaspoon of salt. If you’re using kale, sauté for about 10 – 15 minutes, or until all the liquid has evaporated. More delicate greens like chard or spinach only need to sauté for a few minutes until they turn dark and soft.

5. Remove from heat and serve over brown rice.

Well, I feel a little guilty. We’ve been getting lots of great winter squashes from the farm this season. Right now there’s two shelves brimming with delicatas, pie pumpkins, acorns, butternuts, sweet dumplings. Nothing wrong with that. It’s just there was one special squash I wanted to cook before it was their turn.

So last week I gave all those other worthy vegetables the brush off and asked Jared to bring home a spaghetti squash. If you’ve ever cooked one, you know how much fun they are.

The name pretty much sums it up: An hour in the oven and it pulls apart in thin, pasta-like strands. Fun! And that hour is just enough time to whip up a big batch of marinara to top it with. More fun!

A chunk of Roquefort was a last minute inspiration. We topped the sauce with a few pieces and let it melt slightly before we tasted it. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but it’s salty earthiness turned out to be a great partner for the sweetness of the squash.

Give it a try with your own favorite Gorgonzola or blue cheese, or without any at all– you’ll still end up with a delicious meal.

Spaghetti Squash with Tomato Sauce and Roquefort

1 medium spaghetti squash

One 28 oz. can diced tomatoes

4 oz. Roquefort, gently crumbled

1 small onion, diced

1 small red pepper, diced

1 small green pepper, diced

4 Tbs unsalted butter

3 cloves garlic

4 large basil leaves, chopped

1 tsp dried oregano

¼ cup water

Salt and pepper to taste

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Cut the squash in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Pierce the skin and place flesh-side down in a deep glass baking dish. Add the water and pop in the oven. Bake for 45 minutes to an hour, or until a fork pierces very easily through both halves, and the skin dents a little when you squeeze it.

2. Heat the butter in a large, heavy-bottomed sauce pan over medium heat. Add garlic, onions and peppers and sauté for 10 minutes.

3. Add the tomatoes and stir. Raise heat and bring sauce to a light boil. Add the basil and oregano. Reduce heat and simmer until squash is ready, about 45 minutes. Stir to prevent sticking, but don’t over do it.

4. Remove the squash from the oven and let it cool until you can handle it comfortably. Hold the squash on it’s end and using a fork, scrape out the flesh. It should come out in spaghetti-like strands.

5. Top with sauce and sprinkle with Roquefort. Ready to serve!

Serves 2, with sauce left over.

Wow wow wow. Jared and I just got back from a special wedding in a very amazing place. This Sunday, Kyle and Rivkah got hitched among the Redwoods of Monte Rio, California, the Russian River winding lazily in the background.

Great people, crazy dancing, breathtaking surroundings. Somewhere during it all, I had this revelation: Oh my god, I’m getting married in exactly ONE year. What? The ideas… the details… it all started mushrooming. Suddenly, just knowing the where and the when wasn’t enough anymore.

Time to get to work. Right now Jared’s sitting next to me, sketching out some ideas (sorry, top secret for now). I know one thing: it’s gonna be a great party.

While we start mulling over the details, here’s a recipe that uses up the last of summer’s fresh tomatoes and corn. A nod to grilling season’s end (although don’t think we won’t try sneaking a few more cookouts in), the special ingredient in this soup is smokey barbecue sauce.

Don’t forget to grab a bag of blue corn chips to sprinkle on top!

Texas Two-Bean Soup

From Moosewood Restaurant Daily Special

2 cups chopped onion

6 garlic cloves, pressed

2 Tbs olive oil

½ tsp. salt

1 cup diced celery

2 cups chopped mix of red and green peppers

1 small jalapeno, minced

1 tsp. dried oregano

½ tsp. dried thyme

2 tsp. cumin

½ tsp. ground black pepper

2 cups water

3 large tomatoes, chopped, with juice reserved if possible (or one 15 ½ ounce can)

1 ½ cups black eyed peas, cooked

1 ½ cups black beans, cooked

(if you don’t want to take the time to cook dried beans, use one 15 ½ ounce can, drained and rinsed)

¼ cup of BBQ sauce (we used Smoke Daddy’s Sweet and Smokey sauce)

salt to taste

Garnish with crushed blue corn tortilla chips and grated Monterey Jack cheese (we used Cabot’s Pepper Jack). Sour cream would also make a nice topping.

1. In a large soup pot, heat the oil and salt over medium. Add the onions and garlic and cook, covered for 8 – 10 minutes. Stir occasionally until the onions are soft.

2. Add the celery, bell peppers, jalapeno, oregano, thyme, cumin and black pepper. Saute for another 10 minutes – don’t forget to stir it now and then to prevent sticking.

3. Pour in the water and tomatoes and simmer, covered, until the celery is tender, about 10 – 15 minutes.

4. Add the black eyed peas, beans, BBQ sauce and stir well. Slap the cover back on and enjoy a beer while the soup enters it’s final 10 minute simmer. Remove from heat and add salt to taste. Add your choice of garnish and enjoy.

Serves 4