Simple Measure

Do you remember when I learned how to make bread, Erin?

I decided to make the bread for the third Thanksgiving party that we hosted because I had a standing mixer that I was afraid of. I bought it because it was a fantastic deal, but I had no idea how or why one would use it. It sat on my counter, silently reproaching me while I made yet another batch of cookies by hand. Finally, Thanksgiving gave me a reason to delve into unknown waters: bread baking. It was time to use the KitchenAid.

So slowly, suspiciously, I set about making dinner rolls. The recipe was called Sixty Minute rolls, but I think it took me more like two hours. Was my water for proofing the yeast too hot or too cold? Could I walk the fine line between tacky or sticky dough? Amazingly, they came out pretty good, arriving on the table in irregular sized crescent shapes due to my inability to accurately portion out dough. After this initial triumph, I began using my KitchenAid for everything. At this point, Erin, you will remember a succession of pizza dough, birthday cakes, cookies, and bread emerging from my kitchen.

The next Thanksgiving, it was obvious that I would make dinner rolls again. I got up at 5:00 in the morning in order to mix the dough, and after it had risen I gave each roll an eggwash and a little seed topping. They looked so good coming out of the oven, but when I took my first bite at dinner I was disappointed. They tasted bland, with none of that fresh springiness essential to a good dinner roll. They were a failure. Was it the recipe, my imprecise oven, or just not enough know-how to make these rolls turn out right?

This year, I decided to not take any chances. Armed with an essential book, The Bread Baker’s Apprentice by Peter Reinhart, my trusty KitchenAid and I turned out two practice batches of rolls out of this simple white bread recipe. And they were amazing. Light, golden topped, and full of buttermilk flavor, I knew I had a hit on my hands.

I think it was the quality ingredients that made these rolls so successful. Since the dough gets all its flavor from the enrichments you add, I suggest using buttermilk and a European butter. I used Plugra, which has a higher butterfat percentage than American butter. You can substitute whole milk or another butter, if you like.

Another handy tip for baking is to use a scale for your measurements. It’s more precise than hand measuring, and it allowed me to portion out each roll at exactly 2 oz (well, give or take a fraction. I’m impatient).

This is the perfect recipe for someone just starting to bake bread because the process is extremely easy and the dough is forgiving. Using a KitchenAid helps speed things up, but you don’t need to have one. I sometimes do the last kneading by hand so that I can get a feel for the dough. If you’re hand kneading, here’s a word of caution — resist the temptation to add too much flour because the dough is sticky. This will just give you tough rolls.

Buttermilk Dinner Rolls

From The Bread Baker’s Apprentice by Peter Reinhart

4 1/4 cups unbleached bread flour (21.5 oz)

1 1/2 teaspoon salt (.38 oz)

3 tablespoons sugar (1.5 oz)

2 teaspoons instant yeast (.22 oz)

1 large egg, slightly beaten, at room temperature

1/4 cup butter, at room temperature (2 oz)

1 1/2 cups buttermilk, at room temperature
It’s important to note that this recipe calls for instant yeast, which is more concentrated than active dry yeast, and does not require water to activate. It’s easier to use, but if you don’t have any instant yeast you can use about 3 1/2 teaspoons of active dry yeast. Add the 1/2 cup of warm water it will take to activate it the yeast, and only use 1 cup of buttermilk.

1, Mix together the flour, salt, sugar, and yeast in the bowl of an electric mixer. Pour in the egg, butter, and buttermilk. Mix on low speed with the paddle attachment. Mix until all the flour is absorbed and the dough has formed a ball. If the dough seems very stiff or dry, add a little more buttermilk until it is soft and supple.

2. Begin kneading on medium speed with the dough hook. You want a dough that is soft and tacky, but not sticky. Add more flour if the dough seems too sticky. Knead for six to eight minutes. Lightly oil a large bowl. Put the dough in the bowl, turning it to coat it with oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap.

3. Let the dough ferment at room temperature for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, or until the dough doubles in size.

4. Remove the dough from the bowl and divide it into eighteen 2-ounce pieces. To shape the rolls, take 2 ounces of dough and place it in the cup of your hand. Push it slightly into the counter and rotate it until it forms a smooth tight ball. Place finished rolls on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Mist the rolls lightly with spray oil and cover with plastic wrap. Allow to rise for around 90 minutes, or until dough doubles in size.

5. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. At this point I like to brush the rolls with an egg wash made of 1 egg whisked with 1 teaspoon water. This gives the rolls a nice shiny golden look.

6. Bake the rolls for approximately 15 minutes, or until they are golden brown. Let the rolls cool for at least 15 minutes on a wire rack before serving.

Voila, dinner rolls!