Simple Measure

I wasn’t sure what recipe I wanted to write about first. And I wasn’t sure whether it would be me or you, Megan, who would make the first post. But after dinner the other day I had a recipe that was destined for posterity. It’s also one I know you’re eager to try.

Last week our CSA share produced a hefty bag of small, knobby jerusalem artichokes. Sometimes these little guys are also called sunchokes. As far as I can tell, there is nothing artichoke-y about this vegetable. But man, can they puree.

Years ago I first encountered jerusalem artichokes at the food co-op I worked for. I think I put them into a chili, where they were instantly overwhelmed by the heavy spices, and then cooked beyond recognition. Unimpressed, I’ve never had the urge for them again.

But the beauty of community supported agriculture is you have to get in the mood for what your weekly box yields. So Jared and I selected this recipe - and the result was a simple, silky soup. A little nutty, a little creamy, this soup dances perfectly on the divide between “ho hum” and deliciously subtle. Served with crunchy rounds of baguette toasts topped with melted Gruyere cheese, it turns decadent. We immediately went back for seconds. That’s when Jared had the idea to experiment by sprinkling a little nutmeg over the top. It warmed up and perfectly complimented its slightly earthy flavor. Nutmeg will always be at the table when I make this in the future.

Meg, you’re a hardened soup veteran. But I think the taste of this one will surprise you too. And the best part? Two hefty bags of the ‘chokes came in my final CSA box today… a perfect invitation for a dinner for four this week.

Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with Gruyere Toasts
Adapted from Vegetarian, edited by Nicola Graimes

Just a handful of ingredients pull together this soup. I’ve only seen jerusalem artichokes at a food co-op, but they should be available in well-stocked produce departments that lean towards seasonal variety.

1 Tbs olive oil

1 Tbs butter

1 large onion, chopped

1 garlic clove, chopped

1 celery stalk, chopped

1 1/2 pounds of jerusalem artichokes, peeled and chopped (You can also just give these a good scrubbing with a vegetable brush. The vitamins are preserved, and their thin skin adds nothing noticeable after facing the food processor.

5 cups vegetable stock

1 1/4 cups low-fat milk

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Ground nutmeg for garnish, optional

Heat up the butter and oil in a large, deepish saucepan. Saute the garlic, onion and celery over medium heat for about 5 minutes or so. Just until everything starts to soften up. Add the chokes and let them cook a good 5 minutes.

Add the stock and season with salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil then simmer, covered, for about 25 minutes. Give it a stir every now and then. When the chokes are tender, it’s done.

Process in batches in a food processor until smooth. Return to the saucepan and add the milk and reheat it over low heat.

While the soup is warming back up, take several rounds of sliced baguette and pop them in a warm broiler for a couple minutes. The broiler setting on my toaster oven worked fine for this. When they’re a little warm and slightly toasted on one side, remove from the oven and top with shredded Gruyere cheese. Pop them back in and continue to broil until the cheese gets golden brown.

Serve the soup immediately, topped with Grueyere toasts, more freshly ground black pepper and a sprinkle of ground nutmeg.

This should make enough to serve 4 people who might like a second helping. We only had 3/4 pounds of the chokes, but reducing the milk and stock took care of that problem. And it still made ample servings for two.